I totally understand that it can be hard to know what to choose and prioritise, especially as most people reaching out to me, tend to plan on going to Japan once in their life. I must warn you, my husband Tom and I often joke that Japan has ruined the rest of the world for us because it is the only place we keep yearning to go back to. So below are a few unmissable cities I would definitely recommend to visit if you have never been there before but also some of my most cherished places to experience.

TOKYO

My absolute favourite area in this big city is called Yanaka. It is one of the few districts where an old town atmosphere from the past still survives with lots of artisans and hundreds of temples. Situated in Taito ward, it is within walking distance of Ueno park, and I can only recommend wandering around and getting lost into its rustic charms. Whenever we go, we have lunch at Kamachiku for some incredible udon overlooking a tranquil garden. Another restaurant I should mention because we had a lovely dining experience, is the one right next to the Kannonji temple (linked to the story of the 47 Ronin). It is very quaint and little (only 3-4 tables by recollection) and is run by the cutest elderly couple. I cannot remember the name of it and you need to feel comfortable not knowing what you are ordering if you don't speak Japanese or like me simply pointing at the fake food samples outside in the window.

Right, you cannot visit Tokyo and not see the famous Shibuya crossing! The way things just work in Japan is simply incredible and crossing that boulevard is definitely one of them. It is like a dance, for real, not a waltz for sure but like a contemporary one maybe. We tend to spend our first day in the Shibuya ward to get over our jet lag and stay awake as long as we can as it is super vibrant and full of shops (make sure to check the Muji store).

Same goes for these two famous streets Golden Gai and Shinjuku Omoide Yokocho. You must walk through them, I just love the atmosphere there with the lanterns and food stalls. I always wish I was fluent in Japanese (or more confident) to be able to just sit down like I belonged and order everything I see.

We also love visiting the Meiji Shrine and walking around Omotesando with its hipster trendy vibe. It is also where Afuri is (probably our favourite ramen restaurant - note that you need to order your food at a vending machine, and they will place your meal in front of you when its ready), we always go a few times to have their Yuzu ramen, try it, I promise you won't be disappointed!

Whenever we go to Tokyo, we try to stay in the same hotel, One@Tokyo. We like its design, functionability and the calm of its area. It is also not far from Asakusa known for its famous Sensoji temple.

Tokyo is hugely diverse and each area has something different to offer from Ginza the expensive shopping district, Akihabara the electronic one to Harajuku the young fashion and cosplay one.

KYOTO

Kyoto is what you imagine and romanticise Japan to be like, or at least it was for me: old matchiyas, hundreds of temples, a place full of history, character and charms with beauty at every street corners and of course if you are lucky Geishas.

You need to bear in mind that everything is quite spread across the north, south, west and east of the city, and I find it to be the hardest place to plan to make sure we optimise our time fully by having the right itinerary. So you will need a bit of organising...

As you can imagine, it is very easy to spend your whole time visiting temples when you travel to Japan, as they are not only sacred spiritual places but also incredibly beautiful and peaceful. So in order to discover other part of this fascinating culture, I tend to prioritise my temples visits in Kyoto. Here are a few recommendations: Ginkakuji, Kinkakuji, Nanzenji, Tofukuji, Kenninji and all the ones you can discover along the beautiful Philosopher's Path.

Kyoto being so wonderful and extremely touristic, I would definitely try to start your days as early as possible and if there is a temple you wish to visit go at the opening time.

If you are up for a little trek, Fushimi Inari Shrine is worth the experience, especially if like me you loved the movie (and book) Memories Of A Geisha, you will know which scene I am talking about. The Arashiyama Bamboo Groves is beautiful although smaller than I had imagined, and if it is windy, the sound of the bamboo dancing with each other gives a lovely melody.

There are plenty of incredible accommodations on my dream list for Kyoto (which I will share in my upcoming guide) but here are the two we stayed in that were really lovely and more budget friendly. Hotel Resol Kyoto Kawaramachi Sanjo, now you need to know I am very sensitive when it comes to scent and I will never forget the fragrance when we first stepped foot into the entrance. The room was full of this incredible essential oil aroma and well, I had to buy a few bottles to bring home... We also stayed at the Mitsui Garden Hotel Kyoto Sanjo, that has a beautiful glassed little garden in their entrance and great umeshu (plum wine) at the bar.

KANAZAWA

Now Kanazawa is like a little Kyoto but with much less tourists, or at least it was a few years ago... It has two areas that have preserved true historic atmosphere and beauty. The Chaya District, with teahouses where you can enjoy Geishas' singing and dancing performances, and Nagamachi, the former samurai district, with private residences open to public. These districts are not too big, so I simply recommend to wander around them and pop in and out the different places you wish to see.

Kanazawa castle is also very impressive but for me the star of the show is the Kenrokuen Garden. It is supposedly classified as one of Japan's three most beautiful landscape gardens and I am not one to challenge this statement. Our visit was made even more special for me as heavy snow started to fall and well I was simply transported. But I can imagine it to be spectacular during any season and I am looking forwards to go back. There is also a lovely teahouse in the garden where you can enjoy some matcha and wagashi.

We stayed at the Kaname inn Tatemachi which has a great lounge area with an impressive vinyl collection and amazing music taste (and I must admit I am very picky when it comes to music). I spent most of the evening shazaming the songs and made a Japan playlist on Spotify that transports me back every time I listen to it.

KOYASAN

I promise I am not going to talk about my dog nor my favourite udon restaurant in London. No Koyasan should definitely be on your list if you wish to experience something deeply spiritual and unique.

Also known as Mount Koya, it is the birthplace of Shingon Buddhism, introduced in 805 by Kobo Daishi, and is considered to be one of the most sacred places and pilgrimage spot in Japan. It is also one of the best places to experience shukubo, an overnight stay at a temple lodging where you can get a taste of a monk's lifestyle, eating their vegetarian cuisine, attending the morning prayers and joining a guided tour of the Okunoin Cemetery at night.

I am not a religious person but I must say, I always feel quite spiritual whenever I am in Japan. The peace of this otherworldly place, the beauty of the old cedars, the 200,000 tombstones erected over the centuries, the privilege to stay at a temple and share a prayer with the monks, is something engraved in me forever and I hope to go back again.

Although it is feasible to get there by transports, it can be quite time consuming and a little tricky so I would recommend renting a car if possible.

TSUMAGO-MAGOME TRAIL

Another great experience is walking the Tsumago-Magome trail, two historic postal towns along the old Nakasendo, the route that ran along the Kiso Valley and connected Tokyo with Kyoto during the Edo Period. The walk is relatively gentle and goes through the forest and countryside, it is also well marked in English, about 8 kilometers long and takes around 2-3 hours to walk at a leisurely pace. At around the halfway point there a traditional house perfect for a little rest, some snacks and Japanese tea.

We decided to start the trail early morning from Tsumago so we stayed there the night before at the Fujioto Ryokan Inn. It is run by a lovely couple who have lived in Italy for many years and came back home to take over the family business. They are both very welcoming, the food was deliciously cooked by the wife, the husband is a super friendly host, who likes to share stories and proudly explains all the local dishes from the menu. You also get to wear a traditional yukata if you wish to and sleep on the most comfortable futon. When we were ready to leave, the husband wished us bon voyage, gave us some lucky charms and also wrapped some ropes around our boots because he predicted that it was going to snow and be icy during the trail (and it was indeed), which was ever so thoughtful of him.

I am very glad we stayed in Tsumago the night before, because we got to walk around this gorgeous little town in the evening which was completely empty at that time of the day, the atmosphere was pretty special and the air so pure to breathe.

KUROKAWA ONSEN

One last favourite stay I would like to mention but that is not on the Honshu island, is Kurokawa Onsen, situated on Kyushu, the south part of the country.

Experiencing an onsen - a natural hot spring source from volcanic water, yes it is bloody hot - is something you should try when you go to Japan. Hot spring baths can be enjoyed in different ways indoors or outdoors in most ryokans, some hotels and public baths. It is something people enjoy doing for the therapeutic properties of the water but mainly to relax and have a peaceful moment with themselves, like a meditation.

There are a few things you need to know about onsens and it can be extremely intimidating!

In most establishments, you will find separate women's and men's onsen baths to respect people's nudity but some are also mixed. Tatoos are usually forbidden so make sure to check beforehand if you have any and swimwear are definitely not allowed. You can also find some private onsens in Ryokans and other hotels which are quite lovely to enjoy as a couple. If you do go for an experience please make sure to read the code of conduct that will be provided (often in the form of little drawings) as there are rules to follow, like for instance you need to shower before entering the natural water source!

Right, back to Kurokawa, one of the most attractive hot spring towns north of Mount Aso that conserved a beautiful traditional atmosphere. The town center, located in a forested valley, is full of Ryokans and public bath houses. Staying guests naturally have the opportunity to enjoy their own Ryokan's baths but note that it is also possible for overnight visitors and daytrippers to explore other baths in town and Ryokan's during daytime.

Now I am not going to lie and pretend I did it all, no, I didn't do any of the public baths because I am super self-conscious, and to be honest I do regret it a little because this place is extremely special.

My personal experience with onsens are private ones and also one memorable time for different reasons and I'll come to it don't worry ha and it has to do with the incredibly stunning Ryokan Sanga, where we stayed.

In all transparency, it is the most expensive establishment we have sayed in but gosh, our two nights there were worth every single penny, especially as it was a treat for our anniversary. The whole complex is simply sublime, the food was absolutely exquisite, seasonal and each dish was a piece of art (multiple courses dinner and breakfast included), the view from our traditional room was something else, the beauty of the different hot spring baths (private ones were available, unfortunately I didn't even dare trying to women's one), I mean everything was just perfect...

Right I know you haven't forgotten about the story, me neither don't worry so here it comes. The morning of our second and last day, which was also our anniversary, the kind receptionist mentions to me that because of the typhoon, all the onsen baths have been quite empty and that the men's one is becoming mixed for a few hours if I would like to join my husband (again side note, only men's baths can sometimes become mixed ones for a few hours, never the women's ones). So still a little timid, I ask my husband to go and check if the outdoor men's bath is empty and if so, I'll join him. We had the whole place for us two for three whole hours and soaking in this hot spring, nestled amongst the natural world of the surrounding forest and mountain, in the middle of a typhoon was absolutely magical, until the noise of the sliding door brought me back to reality ha.

I know you want the funny part of the story (the other memorable reason ha), so there it is, I gulped and turned towards my huband as I guessed a few naked men were about to enter and gosh all the insecurities and embarassment came rushing back. I didn't have my glasses on and to be honest didn't want to look so I asked Tom to let me know once they were all in the bath and 'safe' for me to make an exit, as I didn't want an awkward face to face. Once I received the all clear, a very shy and uncomfortably naked me tried to get out in a very unlady like manner thanks to the slippery rocks and being short sighted. Once out, I ran behind the wooden panel to put my yukata on and left half laughing half embarrassed. So there you go, definitely memorable... Tom kindly reassured me than none of the men even looked at me, as like I mentioned people are there to enjoy a relaxing moment for themselves and they are also extremely respectful.